Padharo Mhare Desh

Finally, my better half gave in and agreed to go to Rajasthan. I was thrilled and started planning our annual holiday. But covering the entire state from Mount Abu to Jaisalmer in one week seemed too difficult. We decided to make this a pure desert experience and leave the rest for later (hopefully). The itinerary was fixed to Jaipur-Jodhpur-Jaisalmer-Bikaner-Jaipur, to be covered by road. I was a bit apprehensive about spending half of the vacation on the road with an unwilling adult as company, but there was no alternative. Either this or Palace on Wheels!!!!

So off we went and landed at Jaipur airport to be met by our cab and driver for the week. The first thing we noticed was the dry sunny atmosphere, we were experiencing a spate of rains at Hyderabad and it was a welcome relief. The next thing I realised was the "Pink City" was not so pink after all. Actually, it was anything but pink, till we entered the old city, then it was as if someone splashed the landscape with pink paint, all buildings were in pink. 

Amer Fort

After a sumptuous Rajasthani thali started the site seeing. First destination - Amer Fort. Constructed of sandstone and marble, the attractive, opulent palace is laid out on four levels, each with a courtyard. It consists of the Diwan-i-Aam, or "Hall of Public Audience", the Diwan-i-Khas, or "Hall of Private Audience", the Sheesh Mahal (mirror palace), or Jai Mandir, and the Sukh Niwas where a cool climate is naturally created by winds that blow over a water cascade within the palace. Now this entire architecture is repeated at all the forts/palaces we were to visit for the next week. Same layout with minor differences. We were advised by our driver to engage a guide, adding we will get all we need to know from this guide that would be useful at other places. The guide not only guided us through the palace but also acted as a facilitator for our shopping needs. Once we were done with Amer Fort, he took us to a government-approved shop which sold everything Rajasthani from quilts to slippers and artefacts. Apparently, the locals charge exorbitantly and these select shops offer a fair price controlled by the government. One word about the Rajasthani shopkeepers, they are good salespersons. They make you sit and then bombard you with all kinds of stuff and you end up buying things that were not originally on the list. Believe me, they are good, I am a very sensible shopper and I got carried away. 
Another uniqueness was that every tourist place closes by 5pm in Rajasthan, so we are literally left with nothing to do in the evenings unless your place of stay provides some entertainment. Unfortunately, the hotel at Jaipur was not up to the mark and we were left in the lurch. We wandered through the streets and had a glimpse of the Amer Palace by night all lit up. There was a light and sound show but we decided to give it a skip after a local auto guy discouraged us. 

Hawa Mahal

Next day we started after breakfast to visit the Jaal Mahal (closed for public), Jaipur Palace, the famous Hawa Mahal (did you know the popular arch we see is the backside of the palace), Jantar Mantar (it's HUGE) and Birla Temple. We also got into one of these funny looking autos, they looked like a cart attached to a motorcycle. Another evening roaming the streets, this time getting a taste of the local pani puri and other street foods.

Next day we started early for a drive to our next destination - Jodhpur. On the way, we stopped at Ajmer to visit the famous Dargah. Somehow, it didn't meet my expectations. I was visualising a calm, serene place where people prayed. This turned out to be a crowded place filled with pickpocketers (our driver insisted we leave our purse and mobiles in the car). I felt that at least in this aspect religions stand united. 

Mehrangarh Fort from Jaswant Thada

Next stop Jaswant Thada. It was a beauty, could be because of the time we landed there. It was serene, pristine and very peaceful. Its a cenotaph and we had a glimpse of Mehrangarh Fort our next destination. We simply fell in love with Mehrangarh Fort. Built on a cliff of red sandstone, it offered a beautiful view. There was a lift to reach the top and then we walk down visiting multiple palaces located within this fort and now housing museums. 

At Jodhpur we tasted their famous Kachori, I didn't know that Kachoris can be sweet too, with mewa stuffing and the size of a puri - I had one and skipped dinner entirely.

Destination Jaisalmer - Another half day drive to reach Jaisalmer, visiting Pokhran Fort and Jaisalmer war museum en route. Though there was nothing new to see at the Pokhran fort, we got to climb the ramparts and see the view. Also, it was interesting to hear the story about the day of our nuclear testing at Pokhran, how the locals felt the tremors and how there were slight damages to many building. We did see the road leading to the test site, no access to the public.

Jaisalmer Hotel

As we approached Jaisalmer, we noticed a change in the landscape. It was as if the desert was creeping onto us. Till then the cities didn't seem any different from other places, except for the exceptional heat and threat of dehydration. As we approached Jaisalmer, we got to see sand dunes and camels in the wilderness. The hotel we were put up was amazing, modelled around a palace, talk about royal treatment!!! 

Jaisalmer Fort is the only fort in Rajasthan that is populated. Apparently, the local king gave the establishments to his staff and they still stay there. Some are converted to hotels. We found houses with a viewing balconies offering photo opportunity for 10-20 rupees. We loitered around the fort trying not to peer into the houses, before returning to the hotel for relaxation before the much-anticipated desert safari.

Camel Ride

Oh, boy was it amazing. A must for every one. The desert safari was simply superb. We went on a camel ride, and then in a jeep. Both were totally worth it. We were offered overnight camping in the desert, which my husband vehemently refused. But after seeing the desert and the cool atmosphere (by evening it temperatures drop considerably) he got tempted and we opted for a night in the desert. We were treated to some Rajasthani folk music and dance, followed by dinner and night in a tent. Well, a modern tent to be honest. The floor was solid concrete with bed and a toilet. Instead of walls and roof, there was a tent. It was nice to be away from all electronic gadgets and spend some time star gazing. Next day morning we had to bid adieu to this wonder, back to the road to Bikaner.

Unfortunately, we reached Bikaner on Govardhan Puja day, day after Diwali, and it is a very important day for Rajasthanis. Which meant that everything from forts, museums to shops were closed. We were left with nothing to do except lounge in the hotel, again a palace replica, and relax. We missed buying the famous bhujia and other savouries too.

On the whole, it was a great trip, we came back relaxed and rejuvenated, could be because of the idle day at Bikaner or the change in pace and environment. But, we will definitely miss the popular Bollywood songs belted on the sarangi, variations thereof, that greeted us at every turn of the trip.