Italy

Usually, travelogues start and end with the travel. But the trip to Italy was unique in so many ways that it has to be extended beyond that.

Inception - three months before the day of travel.

Why Italy?

First, it had been on my to-see list for a long time, since our days in London in 1995-96, but somehow my husband was vehemently against it.

Second, as most of you know, my husband has been travelling frequently to London over the past 5 years. He had accumulated miles as a British Airways frequent flier member and suddenly realised that a majority of those points would be expiring by the end of 2019.

Third, he and his friend were turning 50 this year (they were born one day apart) and they wanted to celebrate it in a special way.

Last but not least, the four of us hadn't been on a vacation together in a long time.

So, many birds in one shot - international vacation.

Now that the why has been established, the next question - where? Europe was the choice based on travel time from India. While we covered quite a bit of Europe in our earlier travels, there were still some places to cover like Germany, Austria, Hungary, Greece and my long-time request Italy. Somehow, Italy it was.

The next step was fixing the itinerary. Visa application requires travel documents including local travel, accommodation bookings etc. etc., so we set about planning the itinerary. Due to paucity of time, I was in a new job, had already taken quite a few holidays, I felt guilty taking more than a week, we stuck to the standard tourist route - Milan, Venice, Florence, Pisa and Rome. But it seemed too hectic and I was compelled to seek a ten-day leave and Naples was added to the list.

Applying and obtaining Visa was in itself a great adventure. Those who travelled to Italy would vouch for it. There are two ways to apply for Visa - directly at the embassy or through VFS services. Each channel has its own set of documents to be submitted. Since we were in Hyderabad, we had to go through VFS. We made the mistake of following the Embassy checklist. We were sent home and asked to come again with the proper set of documents. We did that and were still harassed for improper documentation. Like the bank statement, it said last three months, which we got but then apparently it should be up to 2-3 days prior to the submission date!!!! Anyway, the waiting game started. We applied two months ahead of the travel and didn't hear from the Embassy for three weeks. We tried calling but all our calls got diverted to VFS and they didn't have any information, as their job was limited to collection and delivery of the paperwork. It was really frustrating. My friend started coming up with alternate plans since none of us wanted to cancel our vacation plans. Finally three weeks after applying, five days before the travel date we got our Visas. Apparently, we were the lucky ones, there were people who got their Visas on the day of travel!!!!!

Execution - things that could have been disastrous.

First, we neglected the fact that it was winter. Not exactly forgot since we did pack warm clothing but did not factor in the duration of the daylight. By 4-4:30pm, it would be too dark to carry on any site seeing. We had planned meticulously and accommodated two days for leisure and relaxation. We had booked Airbnb with stunning views, gazebo, solarium and more to utilize those leisure days to the maximum. Due to the short days and my insistence to cover everything on the list, the two rest days were consumed and we ended up tired.

Second, rains. We did not anticipate rains and due to that, we were stuck with wet clothes, smelly rooms and lugging umbrellas around. Luckily, except Rome, other places the rain would subside whenever we were on the road. The Venice floods started the day after our visit. We were in Airbnb at Rome and in that locality, the centralized heating was not to be switched on till mid-November (global warming, I guess). So not only dampness but we had to deal with the cold during the nights.

Third, tickets to museums and cathedrals. Though most of the websites warned us about long queues and to pre-book the tickets, we overlooked that advice. The reasons being multi-fold. Major being the time of our visit. We thought it would be a lean period and there wouldn't be much crowd, wrong, I guess there were many others who thought like us. There is an option at most places for guided tours and skip the line tickets, which were more expensive. So we ended up prioritising the places and going in only for the major ones like the Vatican, Colosseum, and Pisa.

Third, the food turned out to be a major issue. I know Italy is famous for its food!!!! While I enjoyed Italian cuisine, my husband and friends were tired of the "bland food", they were craving for spices. We did visit a few Indian restaurants but they were not satisfied and ended up cooking one day!!!!! I had issues with their hot beverages, they were not hot enough. It was raining and cold and the tea, coffee, hot chocolate were lukewarm at best.

Fourth, we relied heavily on local transport throughout the trip. This worked out quite well and even though lugging the luggage didn't seem too strenuous, I would still recommend taking cabs when you have luggage. Another convenient thing was that the metro tickets were valid on the buses too, which was very convenient once we realised it. Google Maps was a boon, it made our lives so easy. The only time we had a problem was the train from Florence to Rome, it got delayed by about two hours. Without any prior intimation, we had to spend almost half a day at the station.

Conclusion - home sweet home.

By the time we were ready to pack our bags, the feelings were mixed. While the food and all the walking made homecoming a pleasure, the hectic schedule and lack of relaxation made it equally hard. Luckily we had planned the return on Saturday and we had two days to get over the jetlag before the gruelling daily schedules. I tried beating the jetlag by not sleeping during the daytime both on Saturday and Sunday and was feeling quite fresh by Monday morning. But then it is not easy to fool jetlag, it hit me on Tuesday and I had to take the day off and sleep throughout!!!!!!

Let us now dive into the adventure Italy was......click here

Italy - the visit

So, finally, we landed in Milan Airport, Italy. I had been waiting for this trip to Italy for so long, I was excited. As arranged, a taxi came to pick us and take us to the hotel. We checked in, freshened up and decided to see the sights.

Milan

First stop - Duomo di Milano - the cathedral of Milan. We took a train from the hotel to the cathedral and the cathedral loomed in front of us as soon as we stepped out of the station, giving us the feeling of having reached Italy finally. Till then it was just open spaces and buildings. First impression - so many pigeons. Second people flocking around to sell us wares greeting us with a Namaste and references to Salman Khan and Bollywood!!! Next, I wanted to visit Santa Maria to have a glimpse of Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci. But alas the tickets, apparently, have to be booked three months in advance, without that Santa Maria seemed a bit drab. On the way, we visited Porta Sempione - the city gate of Milan. By then we were tired and had an early morning train to catch to Venice the next day, so we grabbed a bite on the way and called it a day. 

Venice

The train journey from Milan to Venice brought back memories of Eurostar - London to Paris and was quite comfortable. Venice - what to say. It lived up to my expectations. People tried to dissuade me from visiting Venice, saying it is all hype and not worth a visit. Might be it lowered my expectations, but I liked it. Our first stop Piazza San Marco - St. Mark's Square. While I savoured the sights of the Basilica and the Campanile, my travel mates booked us on a Gandola ride. It was really amazing going through the narrow canals and under the numerous bridges, people greeting each other - straight out of a Bollywood movie!! Also, this was the first time we tasted authentic Italian food - the standard pasta, spaghetti, ravioli and pizza but the taste was somehow amazing.

Pisa

Next day from Venice to Florence. Again by local train. We dumped our luggage and headed out to Pisa. We took a train and a bus and then a short walk to - Piazza del Duomo, Pisa. Lo and behold - Leaning Tower of Pisa. We took tickets to go up the tower. Not for the faint-hearted, let me warn you. The steps are spiral and steep. We all know it was an architectural fiasco which became a famous landmark, but what I didn't know was that the original architect got his name removed from the records. He realised his folly after the first level and abandoned the project. Later it was taken up by different architects each correcting and adding a level to it, and achieving a structure which compensated for the error and stood erect (in a way) for centuries to come. The view from the top is amazing, the number of people who can enter the tower is restricted. Pisa was where we started our encounter with rains, though the sky thoughtfully cleared whenever we were on the road. Also, Pisa was the place I had the best-tasting pizza with the famous eggplant topping. 

Florence

Once back from Pisa, we still had time to do a bit of shopping at Florence. We were located quite close to the famous Mercato di San Lorenzo and got lured into the road-side market. Since the sky was dark with clouds, most of the shops were packing up for the day. I still managed to buy their famous leather handbags of good quality for reasonable prices. 

Next day, visiting yet another Piazza del Duomo, this time in Florence. By then my travel mates had enough of climbing, so while they waited I went up the Giotto’s Campanile, for a view of the city and the Cathedral. The queue leading up to the Cathedral was too long and we had a train to Rome to catch. We decided to give it a skip and though, I wanted to see David by Michelangelo, I had to give it a skip, too.

Rome

The train from Florence to Rome got delayed by almost two hours. This meant that we reached Rome quite late in the day and given the short winter days our entire itinerary went for a toss. This was my first encounter with Airbnb - a two-bedroom apartment. Though the rain and damp weather was a big letdown we still managed to enjoy the stay.

Day 5: We took the metro to Spanish Steps - very impressive. Being a Sunday, the mass was in progress when we reached the Trinità dei Monti church. Next stop, Colosseum and Roman Forum. Here we took a guided tour which included Colosseum, Palantine Hill and Roman Forum. This was a really enlightening experience. Though we read about the glory and fall of the mighty Roman empire, it does not come close to the realisation that dawns on you, when you behold the actual ruins. Such imposing structures, the ruins themselves are so imposing imagine the sight in their full glory. Lunch was at a locally recommended authentic amazing Italian place, where the host burst into an Italian song when all I asked was for a pic!!!! 

Post lunch we roamed around Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, savouring the famous Gelato. Both of these were a big let down, not the gelato though. Though Trevi fountain was beautiful and impressive it was too cramped and too crowded.

Vatican

What can I say? All that glory, power and grandeur. The only way to enter St. Peter's Basilica is through the Vatican museum. You walk past all the artefacts and paintings belonging to the church, collections of previous Popes, enter the Sistine Chapel and then the Basilica. Words cannot describe the visual treat that is Sistine Chapel. Gazing at it gave me a neck crick wonder how Michelangelo painted it. Then I took the lift and stairs up the Duomo for a bird's eye view of Rome and the Vatican. The stairs were something else, spiral all the way till the top, places, where we got some respite from the spiral, was along the curved edge of the dome, making the walk inclined, really scary. But then what a view! We also get to see the offices and living quarters of Pope and the ex-Pope. Really impressive.

Once outside I walked down the main avenue to reach the River Tiber. This is when the rain really pounded on us, leaving us soaking wet. Finally, I found a place that served vegetarian Lasanga, yummy. My food checklist was complete with the exception of crepes which we had later that evening and biscotti which we got at Naples and which I am still enjoying!!!!

Naples

Next day we started our drive along the coast to Vico Equense, Naples. Again we underestimated our drive time. Actually not the drive time but the number of breaks we would need to drink in all the scenic beauty. I guess after almost a week of ruins, cathedrals and bell towers, it was a welcome break. 

Pompeii & Mount Vesuvius

Another and last day for some more ruins and walking. Pompeii was vast which I did not anticipate. Unlike Rome, this one a natural disaster. Entire city wiped out by molten lava. Climbing the mighty Mount Vesuvius was an entirely different experience. The walk up the mountain was steep and long-winding, I gave up twice before reaching the top. And view from there amazing. But what was more amazing was the steam and sulphuric vapours emanating.

Well, that was the last stop for the trip. From canals to Vulcano; from ruins to cathedrals; from scenic drives to brutal steps; we have seen it all done it all. And I am willing to do it again. Such is the beauty and allure of Italy.

A Homage

"You won't realise its value until it is gone", "You have to let it go to realise its worth", "Tell someone how you feel before it is too late" are the things I kept hearing but never understood their full import. If we don't realise the importance of something or someone in our lives then do we really deserve them or that in your lives??? I am sure my family, friends and even my domestic help know what they mean in my life, don't they?

Then two incidents in my life made me realise what they really meant. One happened when my Aunt met with a fatal accident in 2010 and second when I lost my cousin to a freak mishap last year (2018). These incidents really shook me up. I still regret that I hadn't been in touch with them since the completion of my education. It was not my fault, it was circumstance, I can come up with excuses but it hardly makes any sense now, its too late. To understand my rant, we need to go to my childhood.

Every summer, my mother and her siblings met at their parent's house along with families. So, that meant us, cousins, too. It was a full house and those were the days of no TV, no mobile, basically, we were left to entertain ourselves. My grandparents had a house with a huge hall (might be 20x15 feet or larger) which acted as a dining space plus living space plus playground plus night quarters. Imagine a dozen or so kids in that space, when the weather was too hot to be outdoors. I don't remember ever getting bored, we always had plenty to do, thanks to the ingenuity and creativity of the adults.

Throughout all those years, I remember my aunt very fondly. The reason being when my mom went for her second delivery (first being me) and later to complete her degree, my aunt took me under her wing and ensured that I didn't miss my mom too much. She was always smiling and always full of energy and stories. She was a college student then, but the same vigor and enthusiasm were present until her later days. The second person I treasured was my cousin. My dad was in a bank and we were always on the move, she was the closest to a best friend I ever had and the fact we were born in the same year worked in our favor. These two were the soul of any gathering. My aunt was the planner, always coming up with ways to include everyone in every gathering. Once we, cousins, grew up and our schedules no longer permitted a common meeting time, she was instrumental in creating a Yahoo mailing group for family members and ensured that we were always in touch. My cousin was a more silent type who could observe and notice if anyone was feeling left out and able to bring them into the fold. With both around, there was no dearth of things to do and topics to talk/debate about.

Another thing about them was their perseverance. They were truly the epitome of one-can-do-anything-if-they-willed-it. Both in their limited spheres achieved what the women activists of today can only dream of. The command they had in whatever they did was amazing, be it running the house, guiding and shaping the lives of their kids, community service or following a career. I remember my aunt going for typing classes when her kids started going to school. She assured me it is never too late to acquire a skill and a skill acquired never goes waste. Another thing I remember was her passion for novels, she devoured them. When she was tied up with her infants, post-delivery and didn't get time during the day to read, she would stay awake at night to get her daily reading quota. At that time, I never understood her behavior, now with all the talk about "my-time", it totally makes sense.

I wish I got to know more about my cousin but like I said we drifted. Even after our return to India, we could not meet often though we were staying in the same city, but whenever we met the days apart didn't seem to matter. She had the knack of making people relaxed and comfortable in her presence. She too, like my aunt, managed to carve a niche for herself beyond her identity as a daughter, wife, and mother, which I wish were true of me. 

What else can I say? I am sure wherever they are, everyone around them is having a gala time. I surely miss them and I wish they knew what they meant to me...I wish I told them...I wish......

My First Outstation Run

It has been a while since I started my tryst with running, but it was going nowhere. I stopped going to the training, citing time as an excuse and was doing something on my own at my own pace and time. I was doing walking-running routine and was doing a 4-5k gig on a daily basis. Post my first 5K (Confessions of a first time runner) and 10k (My Tryst with Running), I had restricted my runs to the Club Run (since it was conducted at my alma mater) and Freedom 10k (despite its stench I love Hussain Sagar).

I happen to come across Auroville Marathon, i was intrigued. We had been to Pondicherry and Auroville around 10 years back and I loved both the places. How would it be running at Auroville, amidst all that greenery, I wondered. I had always wanted to do something like that and locally I keep missing the ICRISAT run, which is closest to such an experience in Hyderabad I understand. Then came a mail from Hyderabad Runners saying they would be organising the travel and stay for any interested runners. I grabbed the opportunity and signed up. I had never understood why people would travel places for marathons, I was about to find out.

Signing up was fine but then explaining to family and friends was the tough part. My husband said sure, I will accompany you. You see he is very much attached to Chennai and wouldn't miss an opportunity to go there and going to Pondicherry meant going via Chennai. Now I was in a dilemma, I had already signed up with the Hyderabad Runners and to be honest, did not want him to come along. I had wanted to do this on my own. Alone. I gently let him down. He backed off immediately, ever supportive. Next were my parents. But then they stopped trying to make any sense of my decisions since I quit not one but two cushy and comfortable jobs for no apparent reasons. So they said fine, all the best. My friends were surprised and in general reacted with "Really!!! Seriously!!!".

Run was on a Sunday and we were booked by a train to Chennai on a Friday evening, bus from Chennai to Pondicherry on Saturday, run on Sunday and return by train the same evening. By the time the actual date of travel arrived, I was developing butterflies in my stomach and arranged to leave Pondicherry on Sunday by flight. Friday night we boarded the train and somehow I could not get a shut-eye the entire night, not sure whether it was anxiety or anticipation. As luck would have it the train was late by over an hour (this train is almost always on time). The train itself was not well maintained and by the time Chennai arrived, we were glad to be off it. A bus was hired to be with us for the next couple of days. We boarded it and stopped for breakfast. The breakfast place seemed to take forever to reach. Another stroke of luck, the place ran out of food!!!!! Some of us, self included, had to wait for almost half an hour for breakfast to arrive.

Some of the runners came to Pondicherry directly and were to meet us at the hotel. Due to our delayed start, everything was getting delayed. By the time we reached the hotel, they took off for lunch. We hurriedly freshened up and rushed for lunch. Luckily it was pre-booked so food was waiting for us. The staff were trying to hurry us up, might be due to the delay or might be it was supposed to be their lunch!!!!!

Post lunch we went to Auroville to collect our bibs. En route, we were introduced to our fellow runners. Not surprisingly, I was the only one doing 10k, the rest were all half and full marathoners with a couple attempting their first full marathon. I felt like an outsider. It was fun listening to their stories and it introduced me to an entirely new world. Most of them were not just runners. Apart from fitness trainers, there were hikers, bikers, ultra-marathon-ers, ironman-triathlon-ers. Each one had a different story as to how they started running and were still going strong despite injuries. It was interesting to learn how the founder of HR got trained for his first marathon by a lady from US, remotely, and how HR was conceived. The most inspiring person was 70 years young (as he was fondly referred) who started his running journey at the age of 59!! Why do they do outstation runs? No idea but believe me it is fun. Like-minded people with a common goal is a lot better than struggling alone and feeling lost. Post Auroville, we went to Aurobindo Ashram and walked along Promenade beach, had dinner and called it a day. 

Next day early in the morning it was off to the venue. The run was amazing. It was more or less a trial run around the Auroville Matrimandir (Globe) amidst nature. Greenery all around, it was dirt path with patches of cobbled path. I never ran in such a peaceful atmosphere. All my previous experiences have been in the concrete jungle amidst hullabaloo. It was just a superb experience to be alone with my thoughts and focus on the rhythm of my breathing and footfall. Humidity was brutal, I was drenched by the time I reached my 4k. But as we were gently reminded, thankfully it was not sunny. I did my 10k in my usual 1hr 40mins, I have long given up any hopes of improving that time. Of course, I got a lot of tips from the professionals on this trip.

Back to the hotel and needed to rush to the airport to catch the flight back to Hyderabad. Again luck strikes, flight got cancelled. Fortunately, my train booking for the evening train was still valid. So that meant more time to hang around with the fun gang. Surprisingly i was not feeling exhausted or tired as I usually feel after my runs. In fact, I was feeling more energetic than ever. The look on the faces of first time Full Marathon finishers was enough motivation to make me rethink some of my decisions. Even those who were in this for a long time, the satisfaction on their face was more inspiring than their words.

Overall it was a worthwhile trip, made so due to the fun team, supportive fellow runners, and superb organization by Hyderabad Runners, and of course, the Auroville Marathon organizers, too, deserve applause.